Immersing in the pleasure of needle turn applique has given me so much pleasure that I can't help to share with you. Look at the happy colors! I bravely ventured out of my color comfort zone and hand dyed this piece of my Fine Cotton Satin into bright magenta red with bits of gold color here and there to tone it down for a gentler feel.
This cotton satin is the so great to hand dye. It takes color so unbelievably well! It is also "out of this world" to hand quilt with. Yes, this brilliant magenta is my back ground fabric - where I am planning to hand quilt. I simply can't wait!
Have a look at my new quilt with magenta background:
Hi, quilters like to try hand quilting but intimidated by the seemingly daunting task of tracing? No need. Tracing is easy as a piece of cake. Here are the easy steps I love to trace:
1. All patterns or designs can be divided into two parts: motifs and background quilting. I always trace motifs first then add background e.g. cross hatching etc in the gaps between motifs.
2. The challenge or "hard bit" of tracing is how to keep the motifs in alignment! Here is my tips:
Fold the off white cotton fabric in the "route" how the motifs are arranged: for example, the new design of Love that never ends #2 is placed along a Union Jack or “米” route：
2a: Cut the fabrics into a square (145 cm x 145cm or 56in x 56in. Note: you may cut another identical piece as backing later. Leave the rest for binding). You will need 5 metres of the fabric (width: 56 inch). Get the quilt fabric kit with a complimentary printed paper pattern.
2b: Fold the square edge to edge twice to turn it into a folded square one quarter of its original size. Then fold the folded square diagonally into a half triangle.
2c: Dry iron the creases before unfolding the folds. These ironed creases will form a Union Jack or "米” shape lines for you to align the motifs with.
2d: Tape the pattern pattern right side up onto a flat and clear surface. Then place the prepared fabric right side up over the taped paper pattern where a motifs should be.
2e: Trace a portion of the motifs at a time using the iron off marker - the marks can be easily removed with ironing or hair dryer or a bit water wipe.
Click here to Liuxin's new downloadable ePattern:
3. After all motifs are traced, trace the background quilting, e.g. cross hatching. Start from the two central diagonal lines from which add more lines outwards. The easiest is to get a ruler of one inch width and keep drawing with it with the need to worry about "calculating measurements". Add more quilting lines if desired only AFTER you have finished tracing your basic background quilting lines. This is the easiest no-fuss tracing!
Get started now!
We had some really fantastic questions in response to our latest email newsletter. I have replied individually, but I thought I would also add these to my website to make it easier for everyone.
Here are answers to the 2 most frequently asked questions:
1. Currency exchange rate vs. "prices": Many questions from US asked why $50 turned into $80 at the check out on our site? Because US$50 = A$80 or so by their respective values in the international market of currencies, in another word, not all currencies worth the same at all times. Not long ago, Australian stayed higher than US dollars for quite some time. It floats according to the economic forecast of each country. To us all, it simply means when to buy or sell. It is simple: Buy/import when your currency value is higher and Sell/export when it is in the reverse. Now is the best time for American quilters to buy/import from us for "a 30% discount"! To monitor the currency exchange rate which are linked to the two little flags (one US and one Australian) on the right hand side of the home page of our website: www.thimblelady.com
2. Free patterns to share for all: The free patterns I have designed on our site are for all to share. This include quilting teachers and shop owners to make your own fabric kits for sale. You are welcome to download and print as many copies as you like. No need to order 9 copies. All we ask is to share with fellow quilters as they are. I can design and am happy to share. I am only too happy if my designs can help hard working shop owners to make up your own fabric kit for the patterns and teachers who do hands on classes on hand quilting, hand applique and hand piecing! Much more new patterns are coming soon! Feel free to share. I can't wait to see a picture of your quilt using your own fabrics made with our free patterns.
The tutorial of how to make a fabric box using my Stitch Regulators is finally ready for you to enjoy!
Click here to watch my new "movie"！
It is so easy to make! It is so much fun to share!!!
Dear quilters, If you have the same puzzle Teresa had. Here is why.
Hi, Teresa, nice to hear from you! Thank you for the pictures. To answer your questions: 1. The thimble is a great fit. 2. The black material is our special polishing agent. We take great pride of it. Can't wait to let every hand quilter know it is not mass plated like the cheapos out there. All our thimbles be it silver or steel, are individually polished, no plating, no nickle plating and no irritation to human skin.
Every Thimblelady thimble is hand polished! The great polish is one of the symbols of quality of our tool. Just wash it off in soapy water will do. We didn't do the washing ourselves because we don't want any thimble get scratched after it is beautifully polished and before it reaches its lucky owner. Once it is washed off, there won't be any new. By which I mean it is pure external and has nothing to do with your skin. The polishing agent won't come back after you wash it off.
Dear Liuxin, I received my new thimble today. I used it for about an hour. It felt a little tight but I very much liked quilting with it. I enclose one picture wearing it to check on the size, please. I was not very happy, however, when I took the thimble off. My finger under the thimble was covered with a nasty black grime that was hard to wash off. I washed the thimble carefully inside and out, and that is when I discovered that the inside, and the base of the thimble, had not been properly finished, but had some kind of residue on them, even after I had scrubbed them. I then checked, and the dimples of the thimbles also contain some kind of hard, black material. I thought the thimble was made of stainless steel, but stainless steel should not look like this. Is this a defect, or is there some information about using and caring for the thimble that was not included in the package? I am planning to buy a second thimble, but would like to know if I need to return this one before I place another order. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Hi, Appliquers, or about to begin?
Look for easy applique patterns? Look no further! Like many things in life, it is boring when it is actually too easy to
achieve. And many interesting patterns that are complex or more sophisticated tend to make you think it maybe
difficult to make! It actually easier than you think - like it is said in an old English saying: It is easy once you know
(Let me simplify the seemingly mountainous tasks to learn. As I said in my tell all book on the how to needle turn
applique techniques: Every image or shape on earth you want to applique is composed of one or more than one of
the six shapes - points, indentations, curves - convex or concave and circles - big or small or tiny and lines, wide or
narrow, be it traditional or contemporary, be it landscape or abstract.
This package shows you in motion how to needle turn seams, how to handle seams around the above mentioned
shapes and how to applique/sew the seams down to perfection. Through the practice, you will also appreciate how
much better you can applique the fine fabrics in the package makes and how much easier hand applique can be
physically if you have the right gear and match the needles and threads to the fabrics... Try it now!
Hi, quilters, our new version of silicone finger protectors:
Try for yourself to believe it!
Hello from New Jersey USA!
I want to get a metal thimble from you but need to know if there is any nickle in the metal. I am severely allergic to nickle.
Dea Bonnie, nice to hear from you!
Our metal thimbles are made in two different materials and none has nickle. one is in stainless steel. The silver are 925 silver. Nickles are used to plate metal object as a coating to prevent rust and in recent years as polish to cover rough work. Our metal thimbles are all hand polished (including the steel thimbles) with the natural metal lust!
Speaking of nickle allergy, I, too, am allergic! That was how I have been so careful with our thimbles and stay away from nickle! Have you tried our fine sewing needles? They too are polished needles without plating. Truly nickle free!
Hi, Janice, nice to hear from you! Congratulations to your progress! To answer your questions:
1. To compare with the thimble I used on Simply Quilts back in 2002, both thimbles are new! Over the past 12 years, we have learned through fitting fingers and teaching hand quilting a lot more!!! The old style silver thimble NOW is an improved new version of the old one: the improvement is the curve around the thimble edge which holds onto the knuckle. It fits better, best for "matured fingers"! Over the years, I have gradually realized who are the majority of hand quilters! They are not young fingers that haven't been used much. Another improvement is it is much lighter as we thin down the part at the pad of the finger - I used to design the thimble so it can be used for all purpose of hand sewing as well as for hand quilting which needs to be thicker to accommodate deeper dimples.
Now with the successfully patented cone thimble especially for hand quilting, we took the extra weight of the new version of the old style silver thimble off so it is lighter and more comfortable for all purpose of hand sewing. And leave our professional cone thimble with super deep dimples to help quilters hand quilt with better control over needles without stress.
The cone thimbles are developed and perfected through teaching after Simply Quilts episode. It emphasizes two key functions of my first idea: bigger dimples to hold and move needle by the wall of the dimple without your finger pressing onto the needle hard to cling onto it - therefore, no longer need to push the needle tip back up to avoid needle penetrating the quilt through too much; long cone shape to help
quilters overcoming cramping top knuckle, a bad habit from old techniques. Cramping fingers for long is the cause of stress and injury. I don't just promote hand quilting or fine quilting stitches. What I have enjoyed most is healthy quilting! Only if one kicked all the stress and pains, she or he will not start to enjoy the tranquility of heavenly feeling of hand quilting.
Regarding the first stitch, please go to the trouble shooting section for answer. Your under finger does not need to push the needle tip back when the needle was first pick through the quilt. When you do not need to touch the needle tip from underneath, your under finger should try to move further away from the needle tip to push the quilt up in front of it! Using the fold of the quilt to force the needle going back wards till the impression of the fold you see from the top are small enough, then push the needle through... First, get all other stitches right, when you find sometimes your thumb can fold quilt so hard that your needle popped backwards out, you know your thumb's power of folding is working. Then try to micro manage or manipulate that "power".
I hope I have answered your questions clearly.
To: firstname.lastname@example.orgSubject: cone thimble
I am a little confused as to which thimble is your newest one. Is it the cone thimble, or the fingertip thimble that is shown in the video? That is the only thing about the video I don't like. You are demonstrating with a completely different thimble.I was unsure whether the video is showing the newest thimble or the older one ( and thus should I have purchased a different thimble than the cone thimble)?
I really do like the cone thimble. I think I am going to order a second one in a smaller size. I bought the M/L which fit perfectly a few weeks ago ( when the weather was really hot) but whether it is because the days are cooler now, or the fact that I am losing weight( yea!), my thimble now slides pretty far down my finger (at least pretty far below the finger nail of my middle finger). I do use the different dimples to accommodate, but the thimble doesn't feel right on my finger. I am afraid to exchange it, lest when the hot weather comes again I will need a bigger thimble again.
I have improved a lot with your method, but still can't get my stitches even yet. I hope that will improve with time. Also, you say when you are getting ready to take the first stitch in a run of stitches, do not put your finger under the needle tip. Yet you don't say where to put my underneath finger to get started. If I don't have my finger under the tip for the first stitch, no matter how hard I try I can't seem to control the needle the way I want to. It seems to slide into the quilt top as I go to position 2( I am not pushing!). Is there a technique or a tip you can give me to get started without putting my finger under the needle tip? It is this first stitch that I struggle with.
Thank you Liuxin!
Shrewsbury, Pennsylvania, USA
I have got an interesting inquiry from quilter Vivian! Here is her questions and my response. I hope it is helpful to you too.
Wow, thanks for the speedy reply back! I didn’t think it would be you replying (you are a practically a celebrity . I know I didn’t see any on your website, but I thought I would ask anyway before ordering...... do you have a thumb thimble in the steel or is silver the only one you offer? I plan on quilting on a frame and like the big stitch style of quilting (much faster). I can get away with the cheaper cotton battings with a bigger needle but I think this will be harder on a silver thimble and certainly will get less “miles” out of a silver rather than steel. Please let me know and thanks again.
Hi, Vivian, I LOVE answering quilters inquiries! It is such a great privilege and pleasure for me. It keeps me in great touch and feel we are together in sharing the love of quilting.
Regarding your concerns of the "demerits" of a silver thimble, you are absolutely right! But right now, we only have them made in silver because the GFC has made large upfront investment for making a steel version very risky. That is why we are still holding it as an ambition instead of an action till now.
Speaking of quilting with large needle through cotton batting for faster result, I would much rather like to suggest you use Hobbs poly batting - the easiest to needle through. To us quilting by hand, it is not so much about wearing through a silver thimble, it is more about wearing out your own joints from finger to shoulder when speaking from a healthy quilting point of view. If you use too much "push" to quilt, you don't just wear the thimble, you wear out your joints more too. They are more important to your well being and can't be replaced as easily as a thimble. So whenever you wear a thimble more, you know that your joints are worn too! I advocate pain free hand quilting for quilters to reduce not just the size of stitches but the “strength" you use to push a thick needle through tight batting or densely woven fabrics. What I have on our website are a total package of supplies idea for pain free hand quilting... How together they can reduce the stress of hand quilting to the minimum!
Have another browse through the introductions to hand quilting supplies on our website, try them, you will see my point.
As I always say, perfecting tiny and even stitches is not the purpose! But the ability to quilt perfect tiny and even stitches using my thimble and technique is a sign of stress free hand quilting. Look after your joints as we have promised ourselves to quilt to death...
Finally, I've got new products!
Thimblelady's new brand of perfect hand quilting threads! Yes, perfect!
Thimblelady's standard of Perfection: thin, stiff and slippery.
1. Thin for easy pulling through quilt works. Thinner quilting thread enable more quilting designs into the quilt. For those of you who love the high dimensional look of the designs and still want quilt to remain soft, THIN hand quilting thread is a must!
2. Stiff for high dimensional or 3D effect of quilting. Used on high loft batting such as Hobbs Tuscany wool batting, give you the best result. When thread does bend with the batting and quilt, as if it has bones in itself, you achieve the 3D effect without additional effort or labour! No stuffings for me - too much trouble for too little...
3. Slippery also helps you to pull threads through a quilt work. The reason it is more slippery is because it is "glazed" - so it does not lint or tangle like ordinary cotton threads do.
One last word, as always truth can only be found by oneself! Although I listen to what others have to say about threads for hand quilting, I DO my own independent research and study by quilting by hand for the last 15 years plus! Don't just take my work or anybody's, always TRY it yourself so you know what the TRUTH is!
Enjoy! and be happy! - this was a phrase used by the Chinese journo who interviewed me for QuiltsChina Show in Beijing... I love it so much so I am wishing you: a big BE HAPPY too! Pass it on, it is Fun!
cheers, and BE HAPPY!
Liuxin Happy whenever quilting!
Once again, politicians made their way on top of us. Our show now has to be postponed to Dec 11-14, 2014 together with the China's International Creative Cultural Expo making way for APEC Submit Beijing coming Nov. However, looking on the bright side, this gives us an extra one and half months time to finish your entry quilt. Hurry!
It has also given me extra time to "perfect the job": I have found great deals for you too: $800/low season - $1100/high season flight plus "throw in" trips within China! You DON'T want to miss it! I'll get all information ready for you soon... Watch this site.
Quilters ask me to share more efficient tips for hand quilting, here are some more:
Tip #1: Less turning of big work in the hoop. I thread at least 6 needles to start here and there within the hopped area (my floor hoop is 18 inches in diameter). So I pick up each needle to quilt each "curve" until it bends to another direction that I can't quilt further without turning the hoop or twisting my own body. When all 6 -10 needles got no where to turn, I then turn my hoop a bit, to enable at least some of curves aligning almost right angle against my body, so I can continue to quilt towards me or away from me.
Tip #2: The added bonus is when I use a number of needles together, some are used more if that one happens to be used on less curvy lines and get more done, I'll be able to tell which needle is blunt first and time to replace it with a new sharp needle. That way, you further reduce potential stress on your hand.
Try it! So you too can minimize the turns of your big project. It really saves a lot of effort!
New tutorial on how to choose thread for hand quilting. Without the knowledge of the 3 in 1 characters that makes a thread better for hand quilting than others, you can't CHOOSE no matter how many choices of threads are thrust upon you! Click to read it now...
Dear quilters, over the years, we have been adding all sorts of tips and tutorials in the process of answering quilters' questions as this site grows. The fast pace new technologies evolve has made me, a slow learner, scrambling to keep up. User friendly has long become a foreign word to me.
Now, I have got the latest hot Help tools in place so you can book a One-on-One tuition through our automated (secretary free) booking system at just a click of a button.
Finally, I have done a much needed tidy up and reconfigured all the assistance, old and new, into three major categories located, along the navigation bar, just below the mean header.
1. For different means of help, go to Help Page.
2. For basic questions, click on FAQ.
3. For online tutorials, click on Online Tutorials Page.
A new Footer:
has been established to store the basic information (such as Knowledge Base, Online Catalog and Gallery etc) moved from their original places (just below the main header) to the bottom of each page. Scroll down any page, you should see the above picture. Click on the word links on it, it will take you to the relevant information. Some links are still to be connected.
This new Blog has replaced the old News tool by the software provider. But the person who write it and the format it is displayed remain the same. Stay in touch!
A: Hi, Engler, nice to hear from you. Whether one machine quilts or not, hand quilting is so soothingly therapeutic and satisfyingly tranquil that everyone should learn and enjoy! It is also easy to achieve fine and even stitches without any pain! Here is the link to our old style silver thimble: http://www.thimblelady.com/sewing-thimbles/ But I would suggest that you try the patented cone thimble if you tend to quilt with the tip of your finger and bend the top knuckle of your quilting finger - that will cause far more stress than many realize.
To answer your question regarding the size of needle for cotton fabric and batting, I wouldn't match Size M needle for the regular cotton batting as my first choice. But If I do use Size M needle for the length to match the size of my hand, I wouldn't try to load as many stitches I would like easily on the best hand quilting batting (resin bonded wool or polyester batting produced by Hobbs or Legacy). When it comes to cotton fabric, only its density of weave and thickness of fabric affect the size of a needle, or to be more clear, only the thickness of the needle. The length of needle only needs to match the size of a quilting hand. In summary, you need to determine the best match of your quilting hand, the materials and batting of your quilt and the size (both length and thickness) of the quilting needle. So you can grip needle easily, push through quilt layers effortlessly and load as many stitches as you can without physical stress on your hand and your needle. I hope I have made myself understood.
Q: Hi, Liuxin, Do you still carry the old thimble that you used on the you tube demonstration? I would like to purchase the one you used to use if possible. Thank you. If using cotton fabric and regular cotton batting would you use the Long M needle for hand quilting? Thank you in advance for your reply.
By the way, you stitches are remarkable and I am a fanatic when it comes to even stitches. That is why I was on the verge of changing to machine quilting but I really enjoy the look of hand quilting better.
Thank you again.
Q and A to customer questions:
Hi, Cathryn, nice to hear from you. Have you got my quilting book? If yes, read the second part of the book - all quilting without pain related matters are explained.
To answer your following questions:
Q1. the perle no. 8 thread that I am using won't go through your needle:
A: It is the worst thread to quilt unless batting is very flat - otherwise, it looks bumpy and ugly; fabric very loosely woven, otherwise it is going to be a royal pain to pull thread through materials and use a thicker needle will mean even harder to push needle through. Like many who tried to quilt using sashiko thread, after once going through the pains of pulling needles and biting the needle to draaaag it through layers (thick thread should have been only used on single layer fabrics as decorative stitches), I wonder who would ever use perle 8 to hand quilt again! Hand quilting thread should be stiff, thin and smooth and is glazed like the one on my website if you want to quilt perfectly without pain.
Q2. It is hard to press your needle through the material, batting and backing:
A: It is not if you don't use needle too thick to penetrate through layers of fabrics. One must match the size of stitches to the materials, batting and backing of your project. The thicker and coarser the materials are and the denser and the stiffer the batting is, the larger the stitches you have to make regardless of how thin your quilting thread is. The thickness of needle must be thin enough to be pushed through your layers effortlessly for painfree hand quilting.
Obviously, thin and smooth thread is easy to be pulled through quilts. Thinner needle is easier to bu pushed into quilts. Thick, hairy Perle 8 is obvious the last choice for pain free hand quilting.
Q3. Do your recommend only to use fine silky material?
A: I love the feeling of fine hand quilting. So I do make the point of selecting the best materials to match my design. But hand quilting does not have to be on the finest fabrics. Reasonable quality materials are fine for hand quilting without pain. But you may need to quilt slightly bigger stitches for thicker fabrics and match thickness of needles to ensure easy pressing of needle going through quilt, and thickness of threads for easy pulling of needle and threads through the layers! Isn't this obvious?!
Q4. What type of material, batting and backing to you recommend for me? also to improve my stitches what type of design do you recommend from your shop:
A: My book has explained it all with diagrams and pictures. I'll be brief here: I think the simplest hand quilting design principle is to make your quilting design or stitching lines lay along the bias weave of your fabric. Say, your top design is composed of blocks of Baltimore applique bouquet, try quilt an outline around the motifs, then use simple 1inch or half inch cross hatching straight lines as the background quilting design and make all background quilting lines fall on the bias weave of your background fabric.
You can also use a practic piece, try to quilt a few lines along the weave of fabrics as well as a few lines along the bias of weave, you will see the difference to appreciate what I mean!
If you have tried the fabrics, batting, threads and needles, not just the thimble and method I recommend on my site, you'd see the difference for yourself! Both my applique and quilting books explained extensively on how to match design with the right fabrics (not just matching colours or prints) but matching density of weaves and thickness of materials. Then how to match threads and needles etc to the materials that you have matched up with your design. All these have a logical answer, its a simple science not a "who likes it" matter.
The reason this is THE TIPs is because many got very frustrated firstn time when they order if though they may have shopping online is as easy as going home!
Here are something you may not know well which result in your order getting error message and leaving you worry whether you have paid or not! Wheb shopping online, this can be scary! - I know that because I too am an avid online shopper...
Don't be frustrated or defeated. Here is why and how you should solve the problems:
1. First time order with us as a guest using your Paypal account, you need to be aware: Paypal will send your order information to us by automatically generate a customer account for you and store your delivery information and your order content while keeping your credit card information to themselves or /away from us - this is a good thing which protects you and us because we are free from the liability of your financial information been theft from us.
However, here maybe somethings you don't know:
Paypal sends your billing information to us as your shipping address and you need to give us your shipping address seperately if it is different from your billing address. It is your responsibility to make sure we know your shipping information before the order is delivered.
Since your customer account with us is created automatically by Paypal for you, you don't have a password for your account. The solution is Sign In with the same email address you have with Paypal, then click "Forgot password?". Then wait patiently till you receive an automated password in your email box and then try to sign in. Please note, create a new account with another email address will not enable you to see the existing account of yours.
SO, Create an Account before you go shopping is the best option! Besides, in case you worry about paying twice or making two identical orders by mistake: we know that could be the case therefore, we always contact our customers to double check if that is their intention before dispatching it. Those pending orders (meaning not charged or incomplete will never get sent). - in fact, Paypal or National Australia Bank send implete orders straight into our abandoned order bin. Unless we click on the bin folder, we don't even know yours are there - that is why we can't really confuse it with successful orders. Anyway, if you have a customer account, you can sign in and see its status, complete it or delete it is entirely up to you.
2. Currencies: Although increasing numbers of quilters are now taking great advantage of international currency exchange, buy when your own dollars is higher and sell when your own dollars is lower than relevant other currencies like a pro! Many first time international shoppers are still confused by it. Here is the simple rule: When the price (in Australian currency) on our site looks more than yours (say, your currency is US$), it is time for you to buy! For example, A$68/olld style thimble is only worth of US$60+ today, it means your money worths more than Australian dollars by more than 10% - that is a 10% discount you can give yourself by simply taking the natual floating exchange value of currencies!
Have a wonderful holiday and Enjoy shopping with us!
To make this Christmas truly special,
I challenge you to start hand sewing something with the bits and pieces of time you get during your busy holidays...
For busy women to make the most fun out of every spare minute you have for yourself:
50 pairs of Stitch Regulators are on special offer - get it now, you will receive a magic seam folder free as a complimentary gift (save $15).
For Moroccan Tile lovers, here is a new one with a simple but romantic appliqued look on top of that eternal elegance:
All orders over $50/each made on our website before 3rd of Jan, 2014 will receive a gift set of acrylic templates for the applique roses and hearts!
You can make a single small item, in any colour combination, or piece into a large quilt:
Magnificent double wedding ring quilt by Liza and Sue. This quilt enbodies all the hallmarks of a great achievement!
the cotton satin fabric which is magnificent to hand quilt!
It is creative, traditional timeless Doouble wedding ring design with a light and modern twist. Well, I take credit for the twist. Wink. I have also helped the sisters to make this quilt using straight piecing with the stitch regulator and needle turn curved piecing to make it easier to handle and achieve better finish. But this is not the point I want to make here...
What has touched me deep inside is that this magnificent work has turned out to be the best extraordinary showcase of their willingness to go that extra mile! Without the extra effort, extra patience and extra determination, this work just wouldn't have been so moving!
I have witnessed the making of this quilt from beginning to end for almost two years. I have come to respect them so much more! They first come to me with a desire to make something SPECIAL for their parents' gold anniversary. All along, they kept learning and pursuing excellence refusing cutting corners on quality.
This quilt is truly made with LOVE and CARE. Two years of time spent on this quilt maybe only "two minute" in their lives. But oh boy, how well spent that has been! Are you inspired?
Celebrate hand quilting with a project that will take extra effort to accomplish. Celebrate this Christmas with a new quilt that you will make with love and care! And you will not rush to finish it, instead, it will be the best you can make, whatever it takes!
- Cheers, Liuxin gone hand quilting!